Different Types of Knitwear Textiles

by Simon Kensington

Knitwear fabrics have long been cherished for their versatility, comfort, and warmth. Unlike woven fabrics, which are made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles, knit fabrics are created by looping a single strand of yarn in a series of interlocking loops. This unique structure gives knitwear its distinct elasticity, making it an ideal choice for clothing that requires flexibility and movement.

They are in various garments, from casual T-shirts and cosy sweaters to elegant dresses and high-performance sportswear. Their ability to stretch and conform to the body's shape makes them particularly popular in fashion, providing comfort and style. As we explore the various kinds of knitwear textiles, you'll discover how each type serves a different purpose and contributes to the diversity of modern clothing.

History and Evolution of Knitwear

The origins of knitwear date back thousands of years, with some of the earliest examples found in ancient Egypt. Initially, knitting was a practical skill used to create functional items such as socks and hats. Over time, it evolved into an art form, with intricate patterns and designs becoming a hallmark of different cultures.

During the Industrial Revolution, the invention of the knitting machine revolutionised the production of knitwear, making it more accessible and affordable. This period saw the rise of mass-produced knit garments, which became staples in wardrobes worldwide. In the 20th century, fashion designers began experimenting with knitwear, pushing the boundaries of what could be achieved with this versatile fabric.

Understanding Knit Fabric Structures

To fully appreciate all the different types, it's essential to understand the basic structures that form them. Knit fabrics are generally categorised into two main types: weft knits and warp knits.

Weft Knits: The yarn runs horizontally across the fabric in weft knitting. This method is the most common and includes fabrics like jersey, rib, and purl knits. Weft knits are known for their stretchiness and softness.
Warp Knits: In warp knitting, the yarn runs vertically along the length of the fabric. Warp knits tend to be more stable and less stretchy than weft knits, making them suitable for items that require more structure, such as swimwear and lingerie.

Unlike woven fabrics, which are rigid and non-stretchy, knit fabrics have a natural elasticity due to their looped structure. This makes them more comfortable and allows them to move with the body, making them ideal for activewear and casual clothing.

Common Types of Knit Textiles

There are several common kinds of knit fabrics, each with its unique characteristics and uses:

Jersey Knit: Jersey is the most widely recognised knit fabric. It's lightweight and stretchy, with a smooth surface on one side and a slightly textured back. Jersey is commonly used for T-shirts, dresses, and lightweight sweaters.
Rib Knit: Rib knit fabric features vertical lines of knit and purl stitches, creating a fabric with excellent stretch and recovery. It's often used for cuffs, collars, and body-hugging garments like tank tops and leggings.
Purl Knit: Purl knit fabric has a textured surface on both sides, making it reversible. It's less stretchy than other knits and is often used in sweaters and scarves for added warmth and texture.
Interlock Knit: Interlock is a type of double-knit fabric with a smooth surface on both sides. It's thicker and more stable than jersey, making it ideal for garments that require more structure, such as polo shirts and dresses.
Double Knit: Double-knit fabrics are made with two sets of needles, creating a thicker, more stable fabric. This type of knit is commonly used for jackets, skirts, and heavier garments.

Specialty Knit Fabrics

In addition to the standard knit fabrics, there are several speciality knits that offer unique textures and designs:

Jacquard Knit: Jacquard knit fabric features intricate patterns woven into the fabric, often in multiple colours. This type of knit is used for high-end fashion garments and decorative items.
Cable Knit: Cable knit fabric is characterised by its raised, twisted patterns, reminiscent of traditional hand-knit sweaters. It's commonly used for cosy, textured sweaters and accessories.
Pointelle Knit: Pointelle is a delicate knit fabric with small, decorative holes arranged in a pattern. It's often used in lightweight sweaters and lingerie for a feminine, airy look.
Lace Knit: Lace knit fabric is an openwork knit with intricate patterns, similar to traditional lace. It's used in elegant, lightweight garments such as shawls, dresses, and blouses.

Natural Knitwear Cloth

Natural fibres have been used in knitwear for centuries, valued for their comfort, breathability, and sustainability. Common natural knit fabrics include:

Cotton Knit: Cotton is a soft, breathable fibre that's ideal for everyday wear. Cotton knit fabrics are versatile and can be used for everything from T-shirts to sweaters.
Wool Knit: Wool is known for its warmth and moisture-wicking properties. Wool knit fabrics are often used in sweaters, hats, and scarves, providing insulation and comfort in cold weather.
Silk Knit: Silk knit fabric is luxurious and lightweight, with a natural sheen. It's often used for high-end garments and accessories that require a soft, drapey texture.
Linen Knit: Linen knit fabric is cool, breathable, and perfect for warm-weather garments. It has a slightly textured surface and is often used for summer tops, dresses, and lightweight sweaters.

Synthetic Material

Synthetic fibres offer durability, elasticity, and resistance to wrinkles, making them popular choices for knitwear. Some common synthetic knit fabrics include:

Polyester Knit: Polyester is a durable, wrinkle-resistant fibre that holds colour well. Polyester knit fabrics are often used in activewear and casual garments that require long-lasting wear.
Nylon Knit: Nylon is strong, elastic, and resistant to wear and tear. Nylon knit fabrics are commonly used in swimwear, hosiery, and lingerie.
Acrylic Knit: Acrylic is a lightweight, soft fibre that mimics the feel of wool. As a more affordable alternative to wool, acrylic knit fabrics are often used in sweaters, blankets, and scarves.
Spandex Knit: Spandex, also known as Lycra or elastane, is a highly elastic fibre that adds stretch and flexibility to fabrics. Spandex knit fabrics are used in activewear, leggings, and garments that require a close fit.

Blended Knits

Blended knit fabrics combine natural and synthetic fibres to create a fabric that benefits from the strengths of each material. Common blends include:

Cotton-Polyester Blends: This blend combines the breathability of cotton with the durability and wrinkle resistance of polyester, making it ideal for everyday wear.
Wool-Synthetic Blends: Wool blended with synthetic fibres offers warmth and moisture-wicking properties with added durability and stretch.
Eco-Friendly Blends: Blends of natural fibres like organic cotton with recycled polyester or other sustainable fibres are becoming increasingly popular as consumers seek more eco-friendly options.

Performance Knit Materials

Performance knit fabrics are designed to meet the specific needs of athletes and active individuals. These fabrics often feature advanced properties such as moisture-wicking, thermal regulation, and compression:

Moisture-Wicking Knit Fabrics: These fabrics are designed to pull moisture away from the skin, keeping the wearer dry and comfortable during physical activity. They're commonly used in activewear and sportswear.
Thermal Knit Fabrics: Thermal knits are designed to provide insulation and retain body heat, making them ideal for cold-weather gear such as base layers and thermal underwear.
Compression Knits: Compression knit fabrics provide support and improve circulation, and they are often used in performance gear for athletes to enhance muscle recovery and performance.

Knitwear Characteristics

Each type of knit fabric has specific characteristics that make it suitable for different applications:

Stretch and Recovery: Knit fabrics are known for stretch, allowing garments to move with the body. Recovery refers to the fabric's ability to return to its original shape after being stretched.
Warmth and Insulation: Knit fabrics, especially those made from wool or other natural fibres, provide excellent warmth and insulation, making them ideal for cold-weather garments.
Breathability and Moisture Control: Fabrics like cotton and wool are breathable and can help regulate body temperature by wicking moisture away from the skin.

Knitwear Care

Proper care is essential to maintain the quality and longevity of knitwear fabrics:

Washing and Drying Guidelines: Most knitwear fabrics should be washed in cold water and laid flat to dry to prevent shrinking and stretching. Some may require hand washing or dry cleaning.
Storage Tips: Knitwear should be stored folded rather than hung to prevent stretching. Moth repellents can be used to protect natural fibres like wool.
Repairing Knitwear: Small snags and holes in knitwear can often be repaired with careful stitching. For larger repairs, professional services may be required.

Applications of Knits

Knit fabrics are incredibly versatile and are used in a wide range of applications:

Casual Wear: T-shirts, hoodies, leggings, and casual dresses are often made from knit fabrics due to their comfort and ease of movement.
Sportswear: Performance knits provide support and moisture management in activewear, including running gear, yoga pants, and compression garments.
Formal Knitwear: Knits can also be used in more formal attire, such as tailored dresses and suits, offering comfort without sacrificing style.
Home Textiles: Knit fabrics are used in home textiles, such as blankets, cushions, and throws, providing a cosy and comfortable touch.

Sustainable Knitwear

As sustainability becomes increasingly important in fashion, more knitwear options are available that are environmentally friendly:

Organic Cotton Knit: Made from cotton grown without harmful pesticides, organic cotton knits are a popular choice for eco-conscious consumers.
Recycled Polyester Knit: This fabric is made from recycled plastic bottles and other materials, offering a sustainable alternative to virgin polyester.
Bamboo Knit: Bamboo is a fast-growing, renewable resource, and bamboo knit fabrics are soft, breathable, and biodegradable.

Choosing the Right Knitwear Fabric

Selecting the appropriate knitwear fabric depends on several factors, including climate, intended use, and personal comfort:

Factors to Consider: Consider the climate (e.g., warm or cold weather), the purpose of the garment (e.g., casual, formal, active), and the desired comfort level (e.g., soft, breathable, stretchy).
Popular Knit Fabrics for Different Seasons: Lightweight and breathable fabrics like cotton or linen are ideal for summer, while warmer options like wool or thermal knits are needed in winter.